Jeremy Gutow is a Cleveland-based male nanny and private chef. He also manages a beauty salon.

Monday, March 10, 2014

Gaudy Asian Restaurants

     Page One Hundred Ninety-Five.
    You know what I've been craving for the last few years? I've really, really been wanting to go to a terribly gaudy and garishly decorated Asian restaurant. Do you remember those places that were decorated mid-20th century with large fountains, larger plastic plants lit with colored floodlights, red stuff everywhere, Tiki gods, hanging paper lanterns, and sometimes real flames coming out of the food? Of course you do. And if you're too young to know what I'm talking about, I'm truly sorry.
Cleveland's Kon Tiki Restaurant
     These restaurants were a direct result of WWII and the return of GIs from the South Pacific who had fond memories of the food, drink and tropical feel of all those islands. The most famous Ploynesian style restaurant was called Trader Vic's and it, in fact, all but invented the look. I was too young to really appreciate the theatricality at the time, but like I say, I've been going through a thing lately where I just really want to eat some florescent food in a comic book version of a 1940's Polynesian Island. And for the record, who cares what the food tastes like?      
     Cleveland, being working class with zillions of former GIs, had many of these extravaganzas. I think our most famous was the Kon Tiki Restaurant in the Sheraton Hotel down on Public Square. Apparently, the Kon Tiki chain was slightly higher end than Trader Vik's, but I'm not sure. Really though, every Chinese restaurant in America had to have some of that decorative flavor going on by 1960 or so. It was simply de rigueur. 
     And I'll tell you something else, I suspect I'm not the only one who's craving that decor again.  In the last few years, Trader Vic's has begun expanding its world-wide locations after decades of financial losses and subsequent restaurant closings. I wouldn't be surprised at all if in the next few years we see New York Times style section articles about how the "look" is back. Tiki is simply fun, lighthearted and warm; the opposite of sterile, clean, understated and simple; read: boring. Also, of course, it's reminiscent of the styles of the jet age. Styles which are definitely back.

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